Cub Cadet Restoration
(Page 2 of 6)
May 2004
Oscar H. Will III
If the tractor runs, so much the better. Give it a spin to determine the condition of the drive train. If the Cub Cadet is a hydrostatic model, check the operation in forward and reverse. Some whining noise from the hydro is normal. If the tractor is a gear-driven model, check for noise in all three forward gears and reverse. Some gear whine is normal, but clicking or bearing growl indicates major transmission or differential work ahead.
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If the tractor doesn’t run, you’ll have to take the seller’s word for its condition. Obviously, some of the best finds will be tractors that aren’t running — but determine if the price is worth the risk. Generally, parts are easy to find, and engines are easy to fix. Used hydros and transaxles are also easily obtained, although such parts add cost to a restoration project, especially if they must be shipped.
Watch ads and eBay auctions on the Internet to get a feel for the cash value of specific models in particular conditions. Prices will vary. A rusted-out, broken-down mess isn’t worth more than $100 unless there’s something rare about it, or if it sports valuable options. Prices for a complete, running narrow-frame tractor without many options range from $250 to $400. Wide-frame tractors often bring higher prices, with newer models priced from $500 to more than $2,000 for a decent Model 982. A nice, complete early wide-frame model, such as a Model 128, might cost between $350 to $700, depending on features offered.
Expect the restoration project to cost from $500 to more than $1,000, depending on the Cub Cadet’s initial condition. Prices will vary if the engine needs a complete overhaul and also on the quality of paint selected. Remember, by the end of the project the garden tractor will be better-built than most brands sold today — and it’ll have historical and personal significance as a restoration project.
Once you choose a model, obtain the appropriate engine and chassis Blue Ribbon Service manuals (IH-made Cub Cadets only), along with a parts manual. Original manuals are often available on eBay or at farm shows, although many sources for licensed reproductions exist. If the project involves rebuilding a hydrostatic transmission, obtain the manual specific to that unit, as well. Time spent looking over the manuals — or better yet, reading them cover-to-cover — is time well spent.
After the Cub Cadet is in the shop, the desire to pick up a wrench will be overwhelming — and like the Sirens’ song, must be resisted at all costs because there’s preparation work to do. First, apply penetrating fluid to any and all fasteners on the tractor, but leave the wrenches in the tool chest for now. Collect marking pens, a notebook, masking tape, a box of plastic sandwich bags and an empty cardboard box — keep them handy.
Then take pictures of the tractor from all angles to document the progress and record assembly details. Make notes and sketches of complicated procedures to ensure proper reassembly. Nuts, bolts and small parts removed from the tractor should go into labeled plastic bags, which in turn go into the cardboard box. Use the tape and marker to label wire ends before disconnecting. These seemingly tedious steps will make reassembly go much more smoothly, will keep the shop organized and safer, will make the project more enjoyable and successful — and help maintain sanity.
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