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The old saying "slow as molasses" surely refers to the syrup's consistency, not to the dizzying speed with which it must be produced.

"When you squeeze the juice, you have about three hours before it starts souring," Howard said. "Most of the time, we start cooking it the minute we can."

Molasses must be cooked - and cooled - fast.

"The longer you cook it, the darker it gets," Howard said. "The name of the game in making molasses is to get it as thick, as clear and with as little bite as you can."

After cooking, Lach-Host molasses is cooled in containers 6 feet deep.

"We let it cool for 12 hours, and all the starch and trash settles to the bottom," Howard said. "It settles out so clear that people think it's honey. It's actually too clear; people don't trust us that it's molasses. 'It didn't have that old burnt taste,' one guy told us."

Howard's operation is based on 25 acres of cane, which generates about 130 gallons per acre. In a good year, his crews cook molasses steadily for about three weeks. The finished product - shipped all over the world - can't be compared to mass-produced molasses, either in price or quality. But for those who want the real McCoy, Howard has it.

"When people want the best," he said with quiet confidence, "we send it to them."

For more information on Lach-Host Molasses (named for Howard's four children, using the first two letters of Laura, Charlotte, Holly and Stuart), write to Lach-Host Farm, 4880 Navy Road, Millington, TN 38053; phone (901) 872-3311.


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