- Related Articles
- BETWEEN THE BOOKENDS
- On the Cutting Edge
- IT'S ALL TREW
Keep proportions in mind, he advises.
"The hardest thing to find is the correct size tire-and-wheel combination to make it look its best, then to make it the correct scale so it's driveable for the kids," he says. "I also set up the pedal models so that the pedal needs to be pushed to go. The tractor stops if released, or if a kid should fall off. I changed sprockets twice to get the right speed."
"Jim used a 4 hp Briggs & Stratton engine with a four-to-one gearbox built on it, then a shaft to a forward-and-reverse box off a mower. He put a chain to the rear end with a jack shaft with a brake drum on it. He used two wheels from a Vespa scooter he'd ridden as a youngster, a lawn mower rear axle and then made a frame and front axle from steel tubing.
"Patrick spends about one year on each model tractor.
"I don't have a machine shop," he says. "I just make them in my garage with only a saw, welder and grinder."
Modeler and 1/16-scale model toy maker Frank Miller says he tries to stick with standard shafts, sprockets, chains, etc., which are usually found at implement dealers'.
It helps to have patience, while using some trial and error," he says. "It also helps to be a little machine shop-smart about an electric welder, a torch, and other tools."
Frank, who lives in Mott, N.D., has made some pedal tractor implements for sale. But some he keeps, because of the time investment, and for sentimental reasons.
When working with pedal models, it runs into more of a job than it appears," he says. "I've had to put in a pinion gear steering shaft to get the shaft up high enough to clear the engine. Then I made a sub-frame to set the engine and sprocket on. On a 20-series (New Generation) John Deere pedal conversion, I used a standard horizontal shaft, 3.5 hp Briggs engine, then added a centrifugal drive clutch to simplify the drive-chains and sprockets. I didn't want any belts."





