A 21st-century odyssey: Restoring an IH Cub Cadet garden tractor
On this Model 100 frame, the forward-most set of holes were worn thin, and the metal was cracked. Flat washers were welded over the cracked metal and ground to the contour of the frame rails. If repairs such as this are made, be sure to add the metal only to the side where increased thickness will not interfere with assembly. This repair won’t please purists, but it’s simple, effective and barely noticeable.
Kate Will takes a spin on her very nicely refurbished Cub Cadet Model 109.
With any gear-driven Cub Cadet, at the very least, remove the shift cover from the transmission and inspect the gears and shift forks. Tighten the shift forks, as they often loosen up enough to make full engagement of a specific gear difficult or impossible. If the tractor jumps out of gear, a loose fork may be the problem. If the forks are tight and the tractor jumps out of gear, then a more thorough cleaning and disassembly of the transmission are required to renew the poppet springs and balls.
The Cub Cadet Model 124 that Dan and Hank Will restored. Hank made the blade for the tractor to help push New Hampshire snow.
Author Hank Will on his Cub Cadet Model 70.
Hank (left) and Dan Will are well into the assembly of Dan's Model 124.
A Cub Cadet Model 109 prior to restoration. This hydrostatic tractor routinely lugged down and stalled when it was run for a short while. The problem was caused by a partially plugged hydraulic line.
After returning to California from a cross-country trip, Hank unloaded several oringal-condition Cub Cadets including (left to right) a Model 125 with hydraulic life, and Models 149, 72 and 105. These garden tractors await their turn in the shop, which was crowded with other tractors.
A Cub Cadet Model 70 prior to restoartion. The frame on this tractor was replaced because a previous owner pried the tunnel loose.
Don't be afraid to tip the Cub Cadet on its side, as was done with this Model 70 for easy access to the steering gear-mounting bolts, and for easy removal of the steering gear, which must be pulled from the bottom. On narrow-frame models, it's easier to remove the drive shaft with the tractor on its side — which has already been completed here.
Kate Will uses a tap to cut threads in a hole that's drilled into the axle for a grease fitting, which will improve the working life of both the front axle and the front-axle pivot pin. Regular greasing prevents the pivot pin from freezing in the axle.
A Cub Cadet Model 100 with the hood nad grille assembly removed. The gas tank was left on this engine during disassembly because it was completely dry. The PTO clutch and PTO pulley are visible on the front of the engine, as is the starter/generator on the left side of the picture. The muffler isn’t corret for a Cub Cadet, but it was reused anyway.
A Cub Cadet Model 109 after the sheet metal, engine and grille components were removed. The finned aluminum component is the hydraulic pump side of the hydro unit. The hydraulic motor is directly beneath it. The hydro is left unpainted to help with heat dissipation.
Two shaft seals on the hydro for this Cub Cadet Model 109 were accessible once the pump and motor were disassembled. The seals are on the lower left and center left of the picture. The hydraulic motor assembly is beneath the blue cloth, where it was protected from dirt while the seals were replaced.