Building A Corn Crib From 1915

By Leslie Mcmanus
Published on May 1, 2008
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Daryl Dempsey's new old-style corn crib, complete with elevator and a load of corn.
Daryl Dempsey's new old-style corn crib, complete with elevator and a load of corn. "Many corn cribs can still be found like this today in Ohio," he says, "but few are still used, and I doubt you'll find a newer one than mine." (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)
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Daryl's John Deere Model B and a load of corn. (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)
Daryl's John Deere Model B and a load of corn. (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)
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The corn crib during construction. (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)
The corn crib during construction. (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)
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Detail of the crib's interior structure. (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)
Detail of the crib's interior structure. (Image courtesy of Daryl Dempsey.)

Corn crib modeled on 1915 plans

When Daryl Dempsey decided to build a corn crib, he decided what was good enough for his grandfather was good enough for him. Using a textbook from his grandfather’s college days, he took a plan from 1915 and put it to work in a new century. “I took the basic design of the then-modern corn crib and beefed it up to meet my modern-day needs,” he says.

The textbook, Agricultural Drawing and the Design of Farm Structures, was authored by Ohio State University professors Thomas E. French and Frederick W. Ives. Published in 1915, it offered a corn crib design said to thwart rats, mice and birds, long the scourge of such facilities.

Daryl’s desire for a vintage corn crib is rooted in more than nostalgia. “I raise beef cattle and prefer to feed corn cob meal because the cob is a good source of roughage for the ruminate digestive system,” he says. “Harvesting corn on the ear is a lot more labor-intensive than shelling it with a combine, but it makes better feed for cattle and I don’t have to buy gas or electricity to dry it. Mother Nature and my crib take care of that.”

The cribs in his structure are 40 feet long and 8 feet wide, with a 20-foot drive-through. Daryl opted to use treated pine posts (guard rail posts) for the foundation rather than the concrete suggested in the book. The posts were placed on 4-foot centers. Two 20-feet-by-6-inch-by-6-inch beams were put down on each row of posts and closely followed by 8-feet-by-3-inch-by-10-inch floor joists on 16-inch centers. The double floor was made from 1-by-10-inch boards.

The upright poles are 4 inch square. The outside poles are 13 1/2 inches and the inside poles are 20 inches in length. These were fastened with 1/2-inch carriage bolts to the floor joists. “I began to wonder if I had built it too big when we raised the first 20-foot pole into the air,” Daryl says. “Twenty feet looks a long way up when you are standing on the ground holding the pole in the air!” The rafters were 2 inches by 6 inches and 14 feet and 16 feet long. The length of the roof on one side is 26 feet, giving it a 2-foot overhang. Daryl used scissor trusses on the inside rafters and doubled them. “It has to be strong,” he says. “I think you could set a locomotive on top of it!”

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