Back in the Game: Part 2

After Pouring New Babbitt and Getting a Good Run in, the 1913 60 HP Case is Back in Form


| November/December 2002



Assembled rebuilt parts

In the September/October 2002 Iron-Men Album we presented Part 1 of Back in the Game, Joe C. Steinhagen's story of the engine restoration on his 1913 60 HP Case. This issue brings Joe's second, and final, installment - Editor.

After we determined the crank wasn't worn we torched and melted out the old babbitt in both halves of all the crank main bearings. We saved this babbitt for re-pouring into the new bearings.

Next on the agenda was building a jig to hold the crank in place while pouring new bearings. The critical issue here is ensuring the crank is at a right angle to the cylinder, and this can be accomplished a couple of ways. Jim chose to machine a round metal disc the exact size of the cylinder bore and another the exact size of the unused portion of the crosshead slide area. In the center of these discs he bored a 3/4-inch hole and inserted a 7-foot long, 3/4-inch diameter cold-rolled steel shaft protruding back past the crank disc area of the crankshaft. This effectively draws a line through the center of the piston and crosshead slide area to which you can square your crank disc, providing your crank disc is square on the crank (mine was).

The assembled rebuilt parts and the adjustable crank support to hold the crank during the bearing pour on the clutch side of the engine.

We assembled all the new clutch parts and drive pinion (everything except the flywheel) onto the crank and lifted the crank back into the main bearing saddle with the hoist. With the crank suspended on the hoist we built supporting jigs (adjustable up and down and forward and backward) on both sides of the Case to set the crank on. The jigs stood on the floor but were spot-welded to the wing sheets to make them stable. After making sure the drive pinion gear was meshed properly into the intermediate gear we squared the crank disc up against our shaft, which was centered through the cylinder and engine frame.

Crankshaft in position. Note the adjustment fittings at approximately 4 and 8 o'clock for centering the crank before pouring new bearings.