SOOT IN THE FLUES


| March/April 1984



36 HP

Hi Gang! I know we are in the throes of WINTER, but isn't it about time for the garden catalogs and flower magazines to be sent out and when you start looking at them and planning Spring can't be far behind!

It's time for one of the stories from Wellsprings of Wisdom by Ralph L. Woods if you don't think much of yourself and get to feeling pretty low, perhaps this will help called ONE MAN. A man who had got himself into a precarious state of mind because of his conviction that one person and himself in particular was of little consequence in the world, took a trip by sea in the hope of ridding himself of his melancholy.

One dark evening at sea, shortly after he had gone to bed, he heard the cry 'Man overboard!' He was in his pajamas, he could not swim or man a lifeboat; what could he do? He reached for his flashlight and directed its beam from the porthole upon the sea. The light fell upon the man in the water, to whom a life preserver was then thrown, and a life was saved. Need I say more?

'I enjoyed reading the information on how to babbitt bearings,' says ELSNER MACHACEK, 714 Union Street, Northfield, Minnesota 55057.

'In order to know how hot to melt the babbitt in the ladle, use a pine stick to skim the top off, then insert the stick back into the ladle and when the stick starts to burn, the babbitt is ready to pour.

I am also a retired journeyman machinist. I worked at the trade for 69 years with the same company. We made heavy duty wood working machinery. In the early days, most bearings were made with babbitt bearings before the ball type was used. I used to pour and scrape in about six wood jointers a day. The speed was 3600 RPM. Instead of the homemade putty, we use a brown putty called babbitt right. This sticks good on to the metal to keep the hot babbitt from coming out of the sides. Be sure that all the anchor holes are clean. If not, drill a few holes at a slant. If you slant the anchor holes, you can pour the bottom and top cap at the same time. Cut on each shim two V-shaped openings. After the bearings are poured, remove the bolts out of the top cap. Use a small chisel and break them apart. Lay a piece of leather about one quarter wide and the thickness of what your lower bearing is to be; make it about one inch long. Then lay the crankshaft on top of the leather. Coat the shaft with a light oil. For large bearings, cut the leather a little longer. Remove it and you will have a small oil well for extra lubrication.