WESTINGHOUSE INFORMATION

The reason for this letter. I purchased some literature on the
Westinghouse Co., Schenectady, N.Y. a few days ago and found some
information that might be of interest to owners of old Westinghouse
steam engines. I am enclosing a copy of each item. If you think it
would be of interest to the readers of ‘The Iron Men Album’
I will give you permission to print it. The directions for setting
valves on 12,15 and 18 HP engines are for the Westinghouse steam
engines.

In 1896 the 12-HP traction engine sold for $1,350; the 15-HP
sold for $1,500; the 18-HP sold for $1,600 ‘delivered on the
cars at Schenectady, N.Y.’ ‘Freight must always be payed by
purchasers’ so says the price list.

I also have a list of HP and engine number and names of owners
of steam engines shipped in the following states: Missoui,
Nebraska, Colorado, Minnesota, Iowa, South Dakota, Oklahoma,
Arizona, Montana and Kansas. Only date is on one that says
‘Shipped from factory 7-12-1899. Also have a list of thresher
numbers and their owners. Westinghouse made steam engines from 4 HP
to 18 HP as well as grain and bean threshers, circular saw mills,
and miscellaneous articles.

George Petteys

TO MAKE FIRST SETTING OF LINK

Measure from top of channel bar frame to the center of pin
through valve crosshead, then throw link down measure from same
point on channel frame to center of pin through eccentric rod and
link. This measurement should be ‘ less than first measurement.
If it does not come to this point then loosen the turn buckle on
reach rod to lifting shaft and adjust until the eccentric rod pin
shows the right height: then raise link and test the same way, only
center of lower rod pin should be ‘ higher than first
measurement. After this is correct loosen all set screws in
eccentric on shaft except the one on governor belt pulley. Then
with link down revolve crank shaft over, first using a tram 13’
from point to point. On engine frame will be found a center punch
mark, also one on crank wheel, then with the tram get the direct
center, now insert a thin piece of sheet iron through the snifter
valve opening into the port at the point shown on blueprint at A.
If it will not enter, turn crank over to the opposite center, tram
and test on other end of valve. If gauge will not enter at this
point then there is no steam lead. You will then loosen set screw
in eccentric and revolve eccentric ahead until you can feel the
gauge enter between edge of port and end of valve; now tighten set
screw again, test opposite end of valve again after returning crank
to first position. After equalizing load on both ends of valve by
this means then throw link up and proceed as at first, excepting
that crank is to be revolved under. After testing for lead and
obtaining the proper setting the next move is to lock the
eccentric, each with the set screw inside eccentric. Remove the set
screw in governor belt pulley and if it is found that the hole in
shaft does not ‘fair’ with hole in governor belt pulley
then the positions of eccentrics should be marked on both shaft and
eccentric, shaft removed the hole pluged with a piece of iron or
soft steel dressed down round. Then place eccentrics bringing them
back to marked set ting, tighten set screws as before and then
drill a new hole in shaft with drill the exact size of it on the
end of set screw, then force screw down hard. Run over the settings
again to see that all is correct and that nothing has been
misplaced. If the lead is right the other functions of the valve
will be right. It is advisable to occasionally run over the valve
setting beginning with the first setting of the link.

DIRECTIONS FOR SETTING VALVE ON 12-HP ENGINE

The proper way to determine whether your valve is correct or not
is in the first place, place your engine on the dead center either
forward or backward and then throw your reverse lever to the
extreme forward notch in the quadrant and measure the distance
between the link block and the bottom of the link, then bring the
reverse lever back to the rear notch of quadrant and see if the
distance is the same between the link block and the top of the
link. If this proves not to be the same you can adjust this by the
reverse lever reach rod which has a turn buckle right opposite the
cylinder for this purpose. After you have adjusted this link so
that it raises the same distance that it lowers then mark the
position of your valve in the steam chest with the reverse lever
either to the forward or backward notch, and then throw the reverse
lever clear over either one way or the other and see where your
valve stops. In the movement of the reverse lever the valve will
move but as you bring the reverse lever clear from the back to the
forward notch or vice versa the valve will stop at the same place
that it started from. If it does not do this then your eccentrics
are in the wrong position on the main shaft and they will have to
be moved until you get the results as described below.

After you get your eccentrics set so that your valve moves the
same distance as described above then the only thing that remains
to do is to equalize the lead of the valve by lengthening or
shortening the valve rod. To determine this you take the relief
valves out of the steam chest and you will find what we call the
lead between the inside port of the steam chest and the inside of
the valve. When the eccentrics are properly set there should be
just lead enough between this port and the edge of the valve to
insert the end of a pin or the point of a knife blade. You can
examine this on the front end of the steam chest as your engine is
on the front center, then turn your engine to the back center and
examine the lead on the back port; if not the same adjust your
valve rod until the distance is equal on both ends. If you follow
these instructions you will have no trouble getting your valve
properly set.

If you do not understand just how to find the exact center of
your engine you will find a center punch mark on each side of the
disc wheel and also one on the frame of the engine. These marks
require a 13-inch tram. If you haven’t anything of that kind
you can take a piece of wire and bend a point on each end so that
each point is exactly 13 inches apart and place one end of this in
the mark on the engine frame and turn your disc wheel until the
mark on that catches the other point and you will then have the
exact center.

DIRECTIONS FOR SETTING VALVE ON 15-HP AND 18-HP ENGINES

The proper way for the first setting of the valve is to place
your engine on the dead center, either forward or backward, and
then throw your reverse lever to the extreme forward notch in the
quadrant and then see how far your link raises in the link block;
then bring the reverse lever back to the rear notch of quadrant and
notice if the link drops down in the link block as far as it raises
when reverse lever is in the forward notch. If it does not do so
then adjust reach rod with the right and left turn buckle until the
link comes down to the same direction from the top of the link
block as it does from the bottom of the link block when the reverse
lever is in the forward notch. When you get this properly adjusted
you will find that the center of the link is exactly in the center
of the link block when the reverse lever is on the center. Then
while your engine is still on the dead center throw your reverse
lever either to the extreme forward or backward notch, take the
relief valve out of your steam sheet and mark the position of your
valve; then bring your reverse lever clear over from either the
forward or backward notch and note where your valve stops; in the
movement of your reverse lever from the forward to the backward
notch your valve will move but if your eccentrics are right on the
shaft it will come back and stop at the same place where it started
from when you get your reverse lever clear over. If it does not do
this your eccentrics are not quite right on the main shaft and you
will have to loosen up the set screws in the eccentrics and move
these just a trifle one way or the other until you get the results
as described above.

After you get this part properly adjusted and while your engine
is on the front center you will then want to look for the lead of
your valve between the end of the valve and the front part of the
steam chest on the front end through the hole in the steam chest
where the relief valve has been taken out. If there is either too
much or not any lead you can then lengthen or shorten your valve
rod until there is just lead enough between the valve and the edge
of the port to slip in a thin narrow piece of tin or the point of a
knife blade. Remember that your reverse lever wants to be either
clear forward or clear back while you are making this setting; then
turn your engine over on to the back center and go through the same
operation on the back ports and if your eccentrics are just right
on the shaft and when you get your valve properly adjusted you will
find there is just lead enough on each end to insert this piece of
tin or knife point as described above.

If you do not understand how to get the exact center of your
engine, will say that you will find a center punch mark on either
side of the disc wheel and also one on the frame of the engine.
These marks require a 13-inch tram. If you haven’t anything of
this kind you can take a piece of wire and bend a point on each end
so that each point is exactly 13 inches apart. Place one end of
this on the mark on the engine frame and turn your disc wheel until
the mark on that comes in contact with the other point and you will
then have the exact center.

DIRECTIONS FOR PACKING BOILERS WITH THE ?’ ROUND ECLIPSE
PACKING

Before letting the shell of the boiler down see that the
flangers are smooth and clean, then slip in boiler bolts about
every fourth or fifth hole in the lower flange, lay the packing
around on the inside of these bolts and tie it to each bolt with a
string; then cut the packing of the proper length so that both ends
fit nicely together and have it just long enough so that it lays
out full against all of the bolts; then put in one of the lead
plugs in the center core to hold the two ends together and wrap the
joint with the tape that comes along for this purpose. After the
ends are fastened together the strings can then be cut and the
bolts removed and the shell of the boiler let down to within about
an inch of the lower flange or so there is just room enough to
start the bolts through; then go around and put in all of the bolts
drawing them packing out against each one and after the bolts are
all in there is then no chance for the packing to get out of place,
and the shell can then come down on to the packing and the bolts be
tightened up. These bolts should be tightened up as tight as they
can while the boiler is cold; then put on enough fittings so you
can fill up the boiler and steam it up before putting the wheels,
cab or other parts back to their place. As soon as the boiler gets
good and hot then commence tightening the bolts again turning each
one a little at a time and keep going around and around the boiler
until you have them as tight as they can be drawn. At the same time
tighten up the nuts on top in the same manner as you tighten the
lower joint bolts; then after the engine has cooled down go over
the bolts again and give them another tightening and you will have
a joint that will hold. Of course the top flange for the upper
packing must also be clean and then packing put to place before the
shell is let down and both the upper and lower packings should be
leaded good both on top and bottom with red or white lead.